At 95 degrees should be about 155 to 270psi.Īs for evacuating and sucking the system down, one thing sucking it down does is check for leaks but honestly I havent had much problem at all with leaks on modern AC systems. High side pressures(only readable if you have a gauge set) varies greatly on ambient temp, but at 80 degrees should be 125 to 225psi. And you really dont want to shoot for the high side. However I would rather waste 3 dollars worth of oil for the peice of mind and just go ahead and drain it and refill it.īelow 95 degrees, when you charge the system your low side pressure should be 25 to 45psi. I've seen guys on forums give a guy the third degree because he discarded the oil the compressor came with because he was worried it was just "shipping oil" or low qaulity oil. The dryer alotment into the dryer inlet.Īlso, some compressors already come preloaded with oil. Pour the oil directly into the components.So pour the compressor alotment into the compressor. Then there is adders for other components that got replaced. Quick interpretation:3-5oz is acceptable. If you drain more than 5 oz only add 5 oz. If you drain less than 3oz, add 3oz with the new compressor. If you drain between 3 and 5 oz, add 3 to 5 oz. It talks about what Britton does(measure the old oil you drain and try to match). When you go to the store you will find that theres like 5 different PAG oils, and usually the autozone guys are worthless. Only thing that sucks is I found out you have to hide it from your friends. If you do a few AC jobs between the freon that stays in the car and the freon you lose to typical "oopsies" where you forgot something and it leaks out or you have to drain it again, the tank becomes the way to go really quick. Only drawback is you need a set of gauges to use it, but I already have that. I bought the 20 or 30lb tank for 75 at Sams Club. Those stupid little 12oz cans at Autzone are what? 7 bucks each? I buy the oil in a bottle.And the freon at Sams. If it doesn't hold there, then either you have a leak, or bad gauge connections. Once everything is tight and bolted back up, then you need to hook up the vacuum pump, and suck it down to at least 27" of vacuum, and it must hold there for 5 minutes. Make sure you lube all the new seals with oil. I usually add about 2 ounces to what I take out, just to be sure. The whole system only calls for 7 ounces of oil, so its not going to be much. Drain the old oil out of the old compressor, and add that many ounces of new oil to the new compressor. Probably about 2.5 LBS of R-134a, all your parts, new seals, and at least a vacuum pump.Įverything is a straight unbolt and bolt up procedure, except you must fill the compressor with oil. If you want to do it yourself, you will need the proper oil for the system, to fill the compressor and lube all the seals. If I were you, and you don't have access to the recovery machine, or a vacuum pump, I would just pay a shop to do the job, and you bring them the parts. If you have nice shops around there, they will do it this way for you.Īccording to ALLDATA, it is only 1.9 hours to change all the parts, plus the system recharge. If it still has R-134a in it, I would find a shop to suck it all out, change all your parts, and then let them recharge your system with R-134a. You don't have to change the orfice tube, but all it takes is a piece of dirt to piss it off, and screw up the way the system operates.Īll compressor warranties as far as I know, the accumulator must be replaced at the same time for the warranty to be valid. If you want to do it right, replace the compressor, accumulator, and orfice tube.
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